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Restaurant Review: Nick’s Bistro – Are we in Forest Hills or Athens?

The Nick's Bistro crew from left to right Singe, Rohan, Mario, Uncle Andy, and Jerry. Missing - co-owner Rob and Big John the Yankee fan.

FOREST HILLS, NY – There’s a new Mario dominating the food scene in New York City, so move over Mario Batali, you’ve got company at the top of the food chain. Meet Mario Savvas, restauranteur and bon vivant, and his Nick’s Bistro on Metropolitan Avenue in Forest Hills is giving both Manhattan and Astoria a run for their drachmas.

In Spanish the word sabor means flavor, and its Greek translation must be Savvas, Mario’s last name, because his restaurant lives up to its slogan: “A Taste of Greece in Every Bite,” and a great taste at that.

The heart and soul of the menu, of course, is fish and Nick’s is a sterling example of the best Greek fish dishes in a city known for the best Greek food this side of Athens. Whether it’s the sublime tilapia or fragrant, flavorful swordfish, several different salmon dishes or seafood kebobs, tender octopus or mussels prepared in white wine or marinara, the fish is the star of any truly great Greek restaurant and Nick’s offerings are as strong as any found in Astoria and many in Manhattan as well.

“I love the octopus myself, either in an appetizer or a salad, but one of my absolute favorites is the squid ink linguini with seafood,” Mario says excitedly, referring to both the savory tidbits of octopus in olive oil as well as the splendid mix of shrimp, calamari, mussels and scallops served in a marinara lightly blended with ouzo, the iconic Greek liquor. But the great pasta dishes don’t stop there. Strozzapreti pasta in red sauce features kalamata olives, feta, and zucchini, and a Thalassini Fotia features seafood and spicy red sauce.

There’s also terrific beef, lamb, and other meats for patrons who want something that will stick to their ribs. The Athenian Filet is sauteed with feta, mushrooms, wine, and herbs. The succulent Colorado lamb chops melt in your mouth and there are, of course, terrific gyros and souvlaki.

“Try the lamb kebobs or the filet mignon pressed sandwich,” urge Jerry and Singe (pronounced “sing”), two of the friendliest and hardest working waiters in the City, and they’re right. They’re both smash hits. There’s even Greek delicacies such as Keftedes (Greek meatballs), Loukaniko (grilled Greek sausage), and Lountza (pork loin marinated in red wine).

“We named the Bistro after my father and uncle, who ran restaurants in the Astoria and Forest Hills for 35 years,” explains the jovial Mario, as convivial and welcoming a host as there is in all New York City. “Like my ancestors before us, my co-owner Rob Sarris and I are committed to bringing the best Greek and Greek-American fused delicacies to New Yorkers at a great price.”

And that’s what really sets Nick’s apart. The key to NYC isn’t to find the great expensive dinner – any chump with gobs of liquid cash can do that. True New Yorkers know the key is to find the great inexpensive dinner. That’s the way to be a real New Yorker.

Although new to the neighborhood – Nick’s has only been open since October of 2009 – they are already making a huge splash because of the family reputation for finding the freshest, most flavorful ingredients. Yet due to the great rent deals New Yorkers find in Forest Hills they pass the savings onto you.

Some of my personal favorites are:

Nick’s Pick Salad: a traditional leafless Greek sald with tomoatoes, peppers, cukes, onions, and huge chunks of feta. At a paltry $10 you are stealing from them. Stealing I say!

Mussels Marinara – $10! At that price, there’ll be a warrant out for your arrest!

Salmon BLT – either in a wrap or on a brioche, it kicks a truckload of ass at $13.50.

Stuffed portobello mushrooms with crabmeat – $10.

For dessert, we love the sorbets served in a shell of whatever fruit you choose or chocolate in a cocoa boat or the Greek yoghurt with fresh fruit and candied nuts – $7.

With the most expensive entrée on the menu at a mere $24, you can feed the whole family for a fraction of what you’d pay in Manhattan or Astoria. Terrific food at a more than fair price in the best neighborhood in New York City, Forest hills: What’s not to love? Come by and tell ’em Jay sent ya!

Nick’s Bistro – Greece just got a half a World closer.

Nick’s Bistro
104-20 Metropolitan Ave.
Forest Hills, NY
718.544.NICK (6425)
www.nicksbistro.com

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Jay, Mario, and the NIck's Pick salad. Fuel for sports writers on the go!