The news out of the Karakoram is shocking. An avalanche ripped through the section between Camps II and III of the Standard Line up the mountain at about 9:30 a.m. local time killing 10 climbers, including the legendary climber Nirmal Purja – a.k.a. Nims Dai – who was about to complete his third circuit of all 14 8000 meter peaks.
Broad Peak, the 12th highest mountain in the world is reputedly the easiest of the 14 8000 meter giants to climb, and it just killed a legend and nine other experts even before they reached the death zone. Something to think about before booking a trip. Broad Peak has a summit to death ratio of roughly 10$. That’s what’s considered “entry level” for high altitude mountaineering in the Himalayas. Never forget – in 2023 two frst ascents were marred by death on the descent. First the Polish mountaineers that first summited but two died in a summit bivouac. Then the Iranian team on a new route had three members make a wrong turn and die in a fall. Even the greatest successes on Broad Peak can run afoul of the worst of tragedies
Purja climbed all 14 8,000 meter peaks in a former record 189 days with the aid of bottled oxygen between April and October 2019. He continues to hold the record for the fastest ascent of all 14 8Ks without oxygen at two years and 150 days. In 2021, he and a team of nine other Nepalese climbers completed the first winter ascent of K2.
As of nine days ago almost all of the bodies have been recovered.
