So it’s coming up on my 10th anniversary as a sports writer! We’ll have two weeks of celebrations going on both here and at Cybergolf. We’ll be writing about Ferry Point in New York City, Royal Isabela in Puerto Rico, covering Comets hockey, and football picks. but wait there’s more – as Mick Jagger would say, “PLUS!” – we’ll have a fun interview at Cybergolf.
For now, here’s the intro to the Royal Isabela piece. Enjoy!
The Golf Rum Diaries – Royal Isabela, Puerto Rico’s Garden of Delight
ISABELA, P.R. – It was one of those magical nights that would only have been better if a beautiful woman had been beside me. High on a rocky cliff-top overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, the air perfumed by violet, maga (Puerto Rico’s version of hibiscus), tropical lilies, fragapane, banyon, avocado, and countless other fragrant flora, I bask in one of the great pleasures of tropical golf…stargazing.
What’s the line rocker Mike Doughty sings to Madeline in his hit song?
I can give you the constellations, Lay down here and we’ll count them all.
And there they are blossoming one by one over Royal Isabela Golf Links. Orion and the Big Dipper are prominent, of course, but November in the Tropics region of Northern Hemisphere also brings such rarities and the Great Square of Pegasus, Andromeda, Leo, Pisces, and the burning ember of angry Mars, unmistakable in its burnished glow as it sits amid a backdrop of Sagittarius the Archer, whose bow and arrow pulsate with a pure, Silmarilic light. As the minutes pass, more and more of the lazy haze of the Milky Way materializes: an arc of infinity, entrancing us with its immensity, iridescence, and ineffable beauty.
Thanks to conservationist and naturalist brothers Stanley and Charlie Pasarell’s embracing UNESCO’s Dark Sky Initiative – a light-limiting, night sky conservation movement – this is the moment of grace, the peace and heart’s ease that define a world-class vacation destination – not the amenities, (although they are sparkling – it snows food and rains drink at Royal Isabela), not the accommodations, (though one might think they were royalty for the duration of their stay, the casitas are so large and well appointed), and not the golf, (though Royal Isabela is destined to take its place alongside Casa de Campo as a premiere Caribbean golf destination).
No, the defining moment of a vacation destination is when the rest of the World fades away, when all cares and stresses dissolve. It’s that solace you find when you escape the traffic of the World – when it’s just you, your loved one, and the strange staccato tenor of the tree frogs as they chirp in the trees, the soft trill of the mockingbird (who never sings the same song twice), and a long bell’s lonely ring chiming its sad song in reply to the soft rumble of the deep blue waves as they crash into the white surf.
Daybreak will bring the mountains in silhouette, and as the sun stretches its rays like arms embracing us we will see the very edges of the World Golf Map. And much like Columbus redrew the map of the World with his journeys, Royal Isabela is a voyage of discovery for an adventurous golfer. Gratefully, there are so many wonders to explore.
TRAVELOGUE
Located in the Caribbean Sea east of the Dominican Republic and west of the Virgin Islands, the Commonwealth of Puerto Rico, an unincorporated territory of the U.S., consists on one main island and several much smaller islands. (Think Jupiter and its satellites.) Shaped like a nearly-perfect rectangle with the southeast corner torn off, Puerto Rico’s center lies in 18° 15′ north, 66° 25′ west. It extends roughly 110 miles from east to west at its widest point and about 40 miles from north to south.
Puerto Rico is an oceanic island, not a continental one; it rose from the depths through volcanic eruptions rather than breaking from the mainland in tectonic upheaval. Thus, most of its indigenous flora and fauna are unique to itself, though close relatives exist elsewhere. The legendary sapphire blue of its waters and gargantuan surfing waves are derived from its location: the Puerto Rico trench, the second deepest place on the planet, behind only the famous Mariana Trench deep in Oceana.
Originally referred to as “Borinquen” by the indigenous Amerindian inhabitants, (called the Taino), Puerto Rico was claimed for Spain by Columbus during his second trans-Atlantic voyage in 1493, and it remained a Spanish Protectorate until 1898 when, as a concession of the Treaty of Paris, (which ended the Spanish-American War), it was ceded to the U.S. In 1917, the U.S. granted citizenship to Puerto Ricans, in 1948 they were given the right to elect their own governor, and in 1952 they adopted and ratified a local territorial Constitution, although Puerto Ricans are still subject to the plenary jurisdiction of the U.S. Congress. As of 2014, Puerto Rico remains a U.S. territory, although a 2012 referendum showed a majority, (54% of the electorate), in favor of a change in status, with full statehood the preferred option. With around 3.6 million people, Puerto Rico ranks third in population among the group of four islands that comprise the Greater Antilles. San Juan is both its capital and largest city. It’s time zone is one hour ahead of U.S. EST.
Due to its relatively small size as an island, its lack of natural resources used to produce raw materials, and its dependence on imports, (as well as its suzerainty to the United States which controls its foreign affairs in freehold while exerting trading restrictions, particularly in its shipping industry), Puerto Rico prospered until 2006 before stagnating under a combination of economic and political factors. Its economy is driven mainly by the manufacture of pharmaceuticals, textiles, petrochemicals and electronics as well as service industries like finance, insurance, real estate and tourism.
Despite this downturn, don’t believe what you hear about Puerto Rico being poorer than Mississippi and 41% of its population being below the poverty line.
“I think that’s a myth that is propagated to sell an image. With all the coastal real estate, travel, and pharmaceutical companies booming, most Puerto Ricans are a thriving cash business under the table,” explained one prominent investment banker/entrepreneur who spoke on condition of anonymity. “You should see the malls – there’s a million of them, and they’re always packed. And on top of that, we have Sam’s Club and Costco. People from the other islands come here and load up before going back home, so everyone prospers. There is a strong middle class that is bourgeoning. You should see their kids! They all wear $200-$300 soccer outfits to school.”
American businesses and corporations are especially welcome as significant tax breaks are given to businesses that move to Puerto Rico. As one law may expire, another will take its place, and American ex-pats grow legion as each year passes.
When you think about it, can you blame them? A sign at the airport reads “Welcome to Paradise,” and that’s as accurate as it gets. Due to its location – well within the tropics – Puerto Rico has the quintessential tropical climate: hot all year-round. The average temperature hovers between 82 and 83 degrees F., (28 C.), and varies merely six degrees or so between winter and summer. Coastal water temps are a balmy 75°-85°, so the sun-dripped beaches are heavenly.
Baseball, basketball, soccer, golf, boxing matches, scuba diving, kayaking, spelunking, and zip-lining are all popular diversions athletically, while meringue, salsa, dance, opera, and literature are all cultural treasures, as are the myriad wondrous Catholic churches that grace the country with their gorgeous architecture. Mass in Spanish is an aural treat as a rotund priest booms out in stentorian tones, “Credo in uno deo!”
Other diversions include verdant botanical gardens, ancient lighthouses and stargazing observatories, one of which features the world’s largest radio telescope.
When it comes to food, Puerto Rico has everything. Beef and pork are plentiful, as is poultry. Savory, delicately oiled sausages called longaniza, are a local delicacy, as are starches such as yucca and plantain. As is expected of an island nation, Puerto Rico boasts a galaxy of different fresh seafood and shellfish. Coffee and rum compete with each other for the unofficial title of national drink, the former being strong yet refreshingly smooth, featuring the wonderful slightly burned taste indicative of the freshest ground blends, while the latter, when properly aged, (over one year), is smoother and far more palatable than the best whiskies or bourbons, lacking the gaseous headiness that rudely assaults the tongue when one drinks even the finest wheat distillations. Try Brugal, Atlantico, Pyrat, or any other fine Puerto Rican or Dominican rum and you’ll find its flavor far more civilized. [Author’s Note: Anyone from Dublin, Edinburgh, or Tennessee who feels the need to disagree may lodge a complaint by dialing my message receiving service at 1-899-462-4355, so long as they leave their home phone number. Inquiries will be responded to between the hours of 2 and 5 a.m. their local time.]
